“A tall, dark, handsome surfer enters the back gate. “Hi Wrak, will you repair my surfboard?” Wrak sits on the back doorstep smoking a cigarette and drinking a red can of Sugar Coke. The little dog Punkin, who sits at his side with his tongue hanging out, panting like dogs do, turns and scurries back into the house through the Sears, Roebuck patented doggie door. “Sure, I will fix your board. What does it need? “I am going to surf a place called the Strand up north. The surf at the strand in the wintertime runs two to four times bigger than the popular winter breaks. I have two small, green, fiberglass finlets I want you to resin to my surfboard, one half foot in front of the fin to stabilize the board in big surf. I am worrying about spinning out at the bottom of a fifteen-foot wave,” explains Lu. “I will shape the fins and then glass them to your board with four-ounce glass and laminating resin, and then I will shave the product and give it a final coating of glossing resin. The board will be ready by Saturday,” says Wrak. The three-fin surfboard is born. Lu turns, salutes and walks out the back door gate, and the steel bolt hits the platen, closing making a sharp metallic sound. A Volkswagen bus starts up, and the tuned megaphone exhaust with glass pack muffler blares a popping noise, and the van turns, and the sound slowly disappears in the distance. Wrak takes Lu’s board, a seven-foot-two Wilkin Phaser model, sands the spots, then mounts the fins with epoxy glue. “I will form the fins with a sure form after they are glassed.
The strand is situated as a deserted beach with large homes set one hundred yards from the beach because during high tides and large surf, the water moves up the beach, sometimes more than one hundred Yards. The beach near the water juts sharply downward due to enormous tidal action. Surfers time the surge coming in and then fling themselves off the ledge into the water, paddle furiously, and hope to make the sometimes thirty-minute paddle out to the breaking waves. The Strand consists of three surf breaks: the jetty, the second peak, and the Washing machine. A huge freighter run aground sits broadside at the south end of the beach in about twenty feet of water. Some people agree that the Jetty at the entrance to Manta Ray Bay is the best spot at the strand. A surfer can jump off the jetty or paddle with the outgoing boats into the surf break. The jetty at the strand can hold any size swell and breaks right going left almost all the way to the beach. The jetty usually breaks the smallest of the three definite surf areas. The local blond owners shoot to kill. The second most popular spot is the second peak. The second peak breaks right or left in a pipeline fashion, similar to Windansee in La Jolla. The main attraction of the second peak is a channel that facilitates paddling back out to the waves on big days. On big days, the rip tide surges through the channel, helping a surfer paddle back out to the break. The tallest wave at the Strand is the peak that breaks next to the deserted ship on the south end of the beach. Local surfers call the peak there the Washing Machine because the water between the shore and the breaking waves swirls like a huge Maytag upright washer set on fast. The Washing Machine breaks big, and the waves primarily break left, then spit like the Pipeline on Oahu. Paddling out in ten to twenty-foot surf sometimes takes half an hour. Once out in the lineup where the biggest wave’s crest, a sneaker set breaking five feet bigger sometimes drowns experienced surfers. The only way to the beach is to bodysurf a huge breaking wave to the white water impact area. This is easier said than done. On the beach, The Washing Machine does not look that big until a surfer starts his or her descent down a peak, and the drop takes three or more seconds. Then everyone knows, a surfer will get the ride of their lives, or die trying. On a small three-foot northwest swell, the Washing machine will break eight to ten feet or bigger, easy. Today, the boys will surf the Washing Machine. A bonus to the adventure shows as huge dorsal fins sometimes appearing next to the hulking wreck, serving as a lineup reference out in the water. The option for traveling surfers is to either surf the Washing Machine or have their cars dismembered by an armed and unruly local surfing population that guards the beach like a paramilitary outpost.
“Where is BG?” asks HP. “BG does not like the paddle out here. He says it is not worth it and goes up to the little corner where he has a girlfriend.” Says Wrak. Lu and Eck wax up their boards on the beach. Lu has his phaser, and Eck has a seven foot three tear drop pintail with a big fin. Lu and Ech have teamed up as they are in the same socioeconomic group and share similar tastes. Lu tires of carting Wrak around with a huge grocery bag of food. Lu and Eck dive off a sand dune into the churning seawater, and the race commences. “Let’s watch,” says HP. “I might want to go backside today.” The door to HP’s banana yellow Volkswagen scrap van flies open, and Cool sits in a druid robe with a cigarette and a Heineken bear. “Is it good?” Cool yells, and then he starts singing like at a concert. HP says, “It’s really big.” Cool screams, “I’m going in.” Lu and Eck duck-dive two large waves and continue paddling. In a couple of minutes, two surfers sit in an undulating ocean framed by a huge grey, rusting freighter lying on its side. Eck starts paddling furiously as a cleanup set begins to form outside. Eck paddles to get in the monster like a man possessed, and he drops down, drops down, further to the flats, then squats and begins a bottom turn on a wave at least four times overhead. Eck turns into a huge tube, and the wave covers him up, and Eck disappears. Two seconds later, Eck shoots out of a wave along with a hissing spit of spray framing his exit. He begins paddling furiously to get back out, arms going like motor boats, and Lu takes off on a smaller one. The wave approximates three times overhead, and the phaser bearing Lu jumps on the turn because the board is too wide. The two small fin-lets hold him in. On this day, Lu becomes outgunned. All surfers who surf the big waves know a pintail board will draw out their turns to safety, and a big fin will not spin out on the ridiculous angles of huge breaking waves. Cool runs past in a super suit by O’Neil with a bright red rocket ship with a rounded tail. He has a job as a singer in a band. He jumps off the ledge into the water and enters the arena. “I’m going in,” says HP. “I will too,” says Wrak. Wrak goes into his big brown lunch bag and retrieves a Gordon and Smith nine and one-half inch high-performance fin and screws the unit into his six-ten Blue Cheer Hinson natural Rocker design. Wrak knows his backside remains weak, and today will test his spirit. Eck gets another big tube. The Pang gang rolls in along with their girls, and the three-ring circus begins. Wood leans out of the shotgun seat of a Volkswagen van and smiles to the crowd. He wears a mink stole ripped off from somewhere? HP and Wrak begin their entry. Wrak times the set, and they hit every twelve minutes, three waves to a set. When a huge set of waves fills the panorama, HP and Wrak start paddling like men sentenced to life imprisonment. “I am going to wait for a right-hander on a big set,” says Wrak. He waits far outside where big sharks prowl and sometimes strike stragglers. An enormous cleanup set of waves hits the horizon, and everyone scratches for existence. The first huge wave starts to crest, and Wrak sits in position. “I hope I do not die,” thinks Wrak. He turns and paddles like he never paddled before, and the wave lifts him up, and the board starts tracking down a four or more times overhead right-hander at the Washing machine. Wrak doesn’t know the set cleaned up the gang, and they all swam for half an hour as he started to make the turn at the bottom. The short board arcs up the face, and wrack goes vertical for the first time in his life. He turns back down and drops endlessly again. The wave slows down, and Wrak starts an even cutback into the hook of the breaking wave. His fin hits something hard, and Wrak launches off the board into the washing machine. Wrak at this moment fin dinged a great white shark. Wrak hopes the shark is not mad. Wrak pops up like a cork due to the buoyancy of his wetsuit and looks for the shark. Poseidon, in all his mercy, sends a large wave breaking toward Wrak. Wrak body surfs a fifteen-foot wave on his side to the shore where safety lives. Surf cords have not been invented yet. Twenty minutes later, Wrak retrieves his board and thinks twice about going back out. B.A. surfs a purple gun with a small fin, spins out at the bottom of a triple overhead wave, and eats a soggy lunch of seawater and churning sand. The pang boys on the beach slap their sides and laugh. Bobbie ponders the situation intently. Cool has a seven-eight long narrow, round tail pin and is riding a board more appropriate to the environment. Cool and Eck rip huge pipeline tubes at the strand in the early morning as light offshore winds fringe the breaking waves with spray. Wrak does not want to sit around, so he paddles back out for more torture and abuse. He surfs two smaller waves, one right and one a leaning left, trimming for survival. For some reason, only weathermen and women know, the north wind on the strand starts to blow at about eleven A.M. The beach slowly blows out, and the ocean becomes capped with a white crest blending in to a huge seething cauldron of corduroy madness. Everyone comes in, strips their suit, and redresses. The paddle out is too hard, says Eck, I like pipe better. The vans rev up and are gone. Taco Bell and McDonald’s are the next stop for tanking before the one-hour ride home past the dunes, past the aperture carved out by an atomic bomb, and into the cool hills of Malibu County.
Wrak would ride the Washing Machine occasionally with his friends with more appropriate equipment, namely an eight-foot Waimea gun surfboard. Everyone agrees the paddle out is too difficult and the result of a wipeout at best disheartening if not lethal. Nowadays surfers have tow-ins and surf jets. Bonze boys control the second peak. Once, when alone driving a cast-off barracuda with carbon monoxide in the interior, Wrak happened into a twenty-foot-plus day, right, off the jetty. The waves break like San Miguel, only bigger and churn almost all the way to the beach. A huge ex-marine, at least six feet three, introduces himself to Wrak as they watch the waves from the parking lot at the jetty. The marine says to Wrak. “If you take off in front of anyone on these waves, we will punch you out.” Wrak agrees and watches perfect surf spin off a long jetty bordering a boat inlet to Manta Ray Bay. After watching a while, Wrack goes home, the barracuda spewing noxious fumes out the back and both windows open to air out the compartment as Wrack’s hair-do tosses and tumbles in the wind.
The sad point of Wrack’s surfing career is revealed in the fact that he never could tame the surf at the Washing Machine. The waves, the current, the under tow, and the huge sharks punish the mind and body incessantly. Wrak never saw another big shark there, but fishermen pull in eighteen-foot great whites with regularity and publish the picture in the Nards local paper. The surf crew of the cosmic children, satisfied with their conquest, moves on to better things. The beach at the strand blends back into quiet seclusion, and the waves keep pounding with a roar. The Army Corps of Engineers removed the huge, rusting, corroded hulk of a freighter, and the sand forming the Washing Machine disappeared. The huge waves, the intensity of feeling, of being alive in adrenaline madness, and the virtual picture of surfing will forever remain conscious in the memory of those who did.