Overview

Building a hydrogen bomb is quick and easy.  The difficult part lies in the effort to obtain enriched uranium or plutonium to be used as a detonator. Their must exist other means for fusion enthalpy.  The critical mass of plutonium lies within forty to sixty pounds of enriched fuel.  If such a mass lies in one place, it begins to fission.  The fission reaction builds to crescendo and the fission nucleus becomes a fissile.  A hydrogen bomb can be ignited with a fissile. The color of fast neutrons screaming from a fissile pile demonstrates as a sky-blue light of amazing intensity.

Fission devices

An atomic bomb can be either a fat boy device or a thin man device.  A fat boy device builds as crescent wedges of plutonium that assemble into a sphere. So round and jovial the American way.    The wedges drive together resulting from the force of an explosive blasting cap. Thin man device evidence as three rods of enriched plutonium that fit in a tube.  The three remain separated until driven together by an explosive.  The thin man design remains as the most reliable of the atomic bomb designs and the Russians use this design solely in their atomic devices.

Their possibility exists for other ways to coax subcritical masses of plutonium to fission.  Submitting enriched plutonium masses to intense pressures forces the plutonium to fission.  Spinning spheres of plutonium at high rotations per minute stimulate plutonium to fission. The escaping neutrons from natural decay, when given a path length of velocity squared over r or the radius of actinide sphere, when emitted in a disc with high rpm, has a high Heisenberg probability of hitting another atom and fissioning.  As the disc spins, the mass becomes critical, then fissile, then explosive.  It would be interesting if uranium 238 has a high enough rate of natural degradation to exemplify this effect.    The half-life of plutonium is around 5280 years at which time a plutonium atom degrades and emits a fast neutron.   C spinning plutonium increases the capture area as an arithmetic function of rotational velocity or when spinning as a   circle inscribed by a rotating mass with radius alpha. By artificial means such as the aforementioned, subcritical masses can be cajoled into a chain reaction.  Incredible gravitation or pressure, like found in a sun or large assembling mass, can induce massive fission and the formation of galaxies.  Watch out for the big bang.   Can man compress plutonium of thorium with enough force to get it to ignite?

Fusion bomb design.

Classically, an atom of deuterium fused with an atom of tritium becomes an atom of helium with a liberated mass deficit in energy.  The truth exists to the effect that all alkali metals in the periodic table of elements can be fusion fuel if the conditions of fusion are met. Quantum physics is the same idea as chemical enthalpy in the equation delta H equals the energy of the system times pressure and volume. A hydrogen bomb simply stated; is an atomic bomb with hydrogen surrounding the fission mass.  The hydrogen can be in the form of tanks of gas or as a hydride. Hydrogen gas remains the most stable form of hydrogen to be used in a fusion device.  Hydride may be better; lithium hydride might be best.   Pure lithium metal undergoes atomic fusion and the calculated mass deficit of lithium fusion equals the mass deficit of hydrogen fusion into helium.  The next generation of fusion devices will use lithium metal as fusion substrate. Then beryllium and then?    Each element in the alkali earth metals can undergo fusion if the increasing activation energy proportional to the atomic mass is achieved.   With the knowledge of the above parameters, miniaturization of fusion devices becomes possible and within the realm of plausibility.  Achieving a temperature of 5000 degrees in a closed system may coerce fusion in a deuterium tritium system.    Spinning subcritical masses of actinide-lanthanide purified metals at high rotational velocity can initiate fission in a subcritical mass.

Peopleism

God gave man the gift of intelligence and thought to separate him from animals and beasts.  The strict policing and governing over enriched uranium and plutonium production ensures no criminal to access the basis for explosives of incredible magnitude.  As is the destiny of human existence that continues, small lithium bombs on portable hand-held missiles will soon enter the theatre of modern warfare. The burden of the next generation will be the humane and constructive use and application of nuclear power in an atmosphere of permissiveness and proliferation.  

From the beginning energy accumulates and becomes the Tao. The Tao is everything and is the way for all to follow. Laws given by the Tao however inane and ridiculous they are, they exist to give all brethren a long life. We the people must realize there exists a force more pervasive and powerful than can be imagined and we must comply. Origins of the people vary, the ancient Egyptian civilization, most historians regard as the oldest is not. The Chinese people under the Tao are the oldest civilization in the world and their ways must be studied and evaluated by scenists and educators for application to western civilization.
Long before the internet, and television, and broadband, the Chinese warlords used to have free for all punch out to pass the time before they conquered and killed someone else. Over the span of many years, the shogun watched and studied the martial arts to see what was best to give their subjects something to do. Now we have guns and car bombs. The Chinese administration decided on the internal systems, martial systems internal to the ruling elite, to be the styles inherited by the blessed children of the Tao. These styles are Hsing-I, Pa-kua, and Tai-chi. They chose these exercises over 108 other styles prevalent in Asia. These styles are daily meditations and exercises designed to help the mind focus and keep the body strong. One or more of these styles is to be practiced daily until a person dies. They are the sole purpose of refining the soul and reason of the Tao. The main benefits of these internal systems is to strengthen the body, help the mind focus, and most of all make the body ambidextrous. In most human beings, the weak side, usually the left can only hold things and stabilize the right or dominant side. Permit this humble author to delineate the strategies that will help the populace be healthy and be able to combat the forces of evil that arise everywhere.

Hsing-I means in English, the shape the mind becomes. Hsing-I is the style of the predatory dinosaur and 12 animal systems. The 12 animal systems are taught alone as southern Shaolin.
The main focus in the form of the mind is to self hypnotize yourself into becoming a predatory animal. After practicing the forms for twenty or more years, The animal mind accepts the teaching into memory, and the Hsing-I master can become an animal at will and prey on other animals. This genetic teaching is lethal if applied to vital areas and for this reason Hsing-I is not taught anymore and a more bastardized version is taught in Japan as Shoto-kan. The great and notorious Lu-tang Sun preferred Hsing-I to the other internal systems and would practice crushing for hours on end until his death. The form of mind is all footwork and all masters constantly remind their students that a powerful punch is based on footwork, It is the legs and torso that lend body weight to a pugilistic strike. Footwork is the beginning and end of Hsing-I and an expert can accelerate his or her full body weight for a full strike in six inches of space. Footwork is also the weakness of Hsing-I. When a human gets old, he or she does not move so well. They cant run very fast, they cant backstop rapidly, they cant side step to avoid attack and so they then get hit. Hsing-I is an attacking predatory system so it is slightly defective against a good defense.
To demolish someone in Hsing-I, you attack them until they fall, then you finish them or feed. If you cant floor them a fighter runs away and then attacks again.. Mike Tyson was taught the basics of the style of the Tyrannosaurs Rex. As a Taoist ages, they begin the study of Pa-kua or Tai-Chi.

Pa-Kua means eight combinations., These combinations form the apices of the eight pointed Taoist Star. This Numarian star is the symbol of Taoism and the label of Pa-kua. Pa-kua is comprised of three systems that are related and complementary. The first system is called Northern Shaolin or the eighteen steps This system is static and stationery and thus suits older people. Fighters who like to wade into their opponents and trade punches and brawl prefer this style. Unlike pit fighters in the ring who wear swimsuits without a shirt, the eighteen steps is the form designed for freestyle fighting on the street. It makes use of the grab. The most effective movement in all of no holds bar fighting in the street is to grab someone clothes at chest level and punch their head as fast as they can. In a fight to the death, the grab is as potent as the strike.
The Taoists were a religious people who lived with animals and studied them and the eighteen steps are the movement of predatory insects like the assassin bug, praying mantis, and tarantula.
Using the eighteen steps in a fight, a combatant closes the gap with arms up like a mantis, and then swings his or her limbs in a circle until one or more connect. Pa-kua is the style of the circle and all movements are arcs, circles or ellipses. The reason for this is when a fighter cannot accelerate their mass to strike, a circular strike is more powerful. In a circle Force equals mass times the square of the velocity divided by the radius, so a fighter can stand still and deliver a powerful blow. A circular punch although slower is 3.14 times more powerful than a linear punch, so if a student can rotate their arms rapidly, it is more awesome. Prize fighters do not like northern shaolin because the strikes are slower, but on the street, a fighter can grab their opponent and beat them senseless. Think about this however, a prize fighter is a huge muscleman with fast reflexes and trained by an expert and wears no clothes. Are you a prize fighter walking on the street naked with your arms up? For pure guts and gore fighting, the author thinks this style is best and especially so for women who are grabbed by criminal muscleman and raped. Five stars for the eighteen steps of northern shaolin.,
Pa-kua Chang is the eight diagrams open hand and the style of the preying mantis. This style is not unbeatable by any means and this is why the Taoists combined this system with northern shaolin. Mantis style like Hsing-I is based on movement, movement in a circle, and all postures performed by the praying mantis if viewed from above are circular. Mantis style exemplifies horizontal circles. A dancing system like Hap-ki-do, Okiniwan gyakute, and drunken boxing like the mantis, Is vulnerable to a grappler take down, this is why the ancients insist a student learn northern shaolin before practicing the circular style. In mantis style, a person circles, turns the corner, strikes and then circles in the opposite direction Every evasion is also an attack. You evade your opponent by circling then turn the corner and hit them. This aspect is very important. As you circle and avoid, simultaneously you are winding up for an attack. This style is unorthodox and weird and not direct, but historically, it is the only way to beat a Hsing-I expert. This is why fighters would learn this style. A student must train themselves to move in a circle in both directions and take a new tangential circle at a moments notice. A practitioner walks the circle until they get the angle, strike, and then circle in the reverse direction. Then they do the same and strike with their left hand. Their exist no jabs in the style of the preying mantis. The author regards this style as his own because no one wants it, just him. After circling for twenty years, a practitioner does not get dizzy anymore and when someone launches themselves at him, circle and then strikes instinctively. Paul Kuo said “boxing is like taking a walk”. Does anyone get it?
A student of Pa-kua after they master northern shaolin get their choice of either the style of the praying mantis or the synthetic style of Sun. Whether Sun invented this style is moot but the reason the masters make their students choose between the synthetic style and mantis style is because the synthetic style is the style of the Palm. In the synthetic style a student grabs or destabilizes his opponent in some way and then strikes them with a lethal blow. The main effort of the 21 postures of the synthetic style, is to grab or immobilize your prey before a student hits them with a looping or crushing strike to the body. The author feels this would be the ultimate and most effective style BUT each posture depends upon an initial hand movement to hold or drag your opponent in a given direction before you hit them. You can either hit them with a palm or a fist. It is faster to palm someone head after you grab them. If this initial parry or movement fails, the posture will fail also. The author thinks that in a real fight it is foolish to take risks at all so it is better just to approach and deck them with a right hand. Some people who like complex stuff or technical experts will be in cat heaven practicing the syndetic style or the style of the palm. Suffice it to say, to face an expert in the synthetic style is a scary proposition. The palm can grab a mantis like a spider does.
Now we come to Tai Chi Chuan or the great ultimate. Remember, the Chinese are the first civilization on planet earth. Real translation equates Tai-chi as means “the best” is true. The best comprises 108 postures in the Yang system, some of them from all the martial arts of china. The best is also known as one step boxing because a practitioner takes one step to belt an opponent and move his body weight or parries and punches. Ancient Chinese represent the best with the classic two fishes in eight diagram that illustrates the function of yin and yang or positive and negative. Tai chi basically comprises five movements, the jab or single whip, the right hand or fan penetrates back, the one two or step up and punch , the quick slap or hands build clouds, and the overhand right or brush knee and press. These movements comprise in the United States Western boxing. In Chinese they are the single whip, fan penetrates back, step up and punch, hands build clouds, and brush knee and press., Additional moves gifted by some coaches are the hook-step up and repel tiger, and the hooker cut- step up and return tiger to mountain. A big man, say six feet two on up, western boxer, practicing tai-chi is hard to beat. The Chinese have all big men practice tai chi. The foot movements in one step boxing to accelerate the body mass are the step up and punch, Parry and punch, step to the side, and back step the monkey. All are one step only. All students of the martial arts must remember that a big man can knock you out with a jab, so the only real way to beat a big tai chi expert is with Brazilian jiu-jitsu. Take them down and mount them.
Now we have skimmed the exercises that promote a long life. “Those that practice the internal systems will live a life as pliable as a child and as robust as a lumberjack.” The internal systems as delivered to the west are :consecutive step boxing, circular step boxing, one step boxing, These systems must not be thought of primarily as ways to hurt another human being, but rather as exercises to promote health, sharpen the eye and make you ambidextrous. If they are not passed on in entirety to the next generation they will be lost, and need to be found again, especially in dire, dark, uncertain times. There must be one, every generation, to pass down the arts to our sons and daughters and enable the next generation of a means to defend themselves. Even our ladies in hot pants and bikini tops should partake. Genghis Khans wife was an expert in hsing-I and a beautiful queen that to have might mean certain death. Amen. Mao!

There comes a time when a boy becomes a man.  It often does not occur in a bedroom, or in a van, or any special place.  A boy becomes a man when tossed into the elements, in the world, in a common place, in an extraordinary situation, all alone.  For a fifteen year old teenager, in high school, becoming a man meant riding big waves, radically, with commitment, for the entire world to see. For Wracks, his time comes now.

“Let’s go down to Diego, “says HP

“The surf is flat, I checked it myself,” says Cool

“There might be something coming in at staircase,” says HP

“Do you have smokes and brew,” asks Cool.

“We have smokes and brew, “promises HP, “I need company.”

“I have gas money,” says Wracks, “I’m in.”

“Get your gear and throw it in back,” orders HP.

Kool has a green Meth model shaped like a teardrop, and a green robe that grandma made him and a duffel bag filled with goodies and he tosses them all in the back hatchback of the yellow and white Volkswagen van.  Wraks has a purple and red second hand NatPro purchased for a song from Bee aye the seventh member of the room.  HP has a red pintail BK potato chip.  Wracks has drilled out the glassed in fin on his purple monster and installed a neon orange large fin of his own design.  The result yields a blatant diamond tail billboard meant to handle large surf.  He delicately places his board in the back of the van along with his blue druid robe and a sack of food liberated from his parents house.  The ride down to Diego bodes long and boring and Wracks falls asleep, like always on the bed in the back of the van as the tuned exhaust blare a blatant note of existence. 

Kool drinks a Budweiser sixteen ounce in a huge gulp, finds someone to throw the can at and heaves the crumpled mass at them on the freeway.  The can bounces off the windshield of a sedan, the sedan swerves and an angry driver displays the finger to Kool.  Kool displays the finger back and grabs a cigarette, then lights the Marlboro with a Bic butane lighter, smiles and draws a huge puff from the reefer. The who blares from a tape deck suspended from the metal dashboard of the van and time passes.  Smoke drifts in eddies out the side exit windows and the town of little happenings comes into view.  Looking down the cliff, the three surveys the beach break with rocky reefs interspersed amongst the long expanse of sand.  The waves break at two to three feet with a light wind blowing the soup into a delicate froth of soup.   

“Let’s go to seven eleven.”  Says HP “ I am hungry.”

“Yeah dah.” Screams cool, “Hamburger, candy and a huge slurpee to go for me.”

The yellow white van growls into town and the first 7-11 looms in front of it.  HP pulls in, he and Kool exits the car and go inside the store.   They both return with brown bags and large slurpees in blue and red cherry.  Wracks eats his bread, a packet of Kraft cheese bits  and savors a can of red sugared coca cola. 

“We are going to Windiness, “   smiles HP

“The cashier inside the 7-11 says that a hard south swell currently focuses on Windiness and the surf should be larger there. “

“I have never been to Windiness,” says Wracks

“The break appears to be a deep-water reef close to shore and the waves break right and left depending on the season and the swell direction.” In the summer the lefts are better.  “It is only fifteen minutes more, over the bridge, at the entrance to Diego Bay.  A colony of small house situates there and the person at the forecasting station told me where we could park safely.”

Over the grey steel bridge and into the southern part of the niche, before Crown beach go the three surf riders with hopes, dreams and ambition.  In ambition, comes excellence and today the excellence tests under the envelope of big.  Windiness beach looks like a short beach strewn with rocks, typical of southern California beaches.  Windiness sets straight like a flat beach break except here, south of The Niche, the bottom of the ocean a hundred yards out spans deeper than one thousand feet.  For this reason, ocean swells attract to the reef and rear up suddenly out of the deep water and break hard with much mass and water coming over  with the breaking wave.  Wrack’s looks out the side window of the van and Windiness, today breaks at over twenty five feet in height.  A tall man in a white helmet and long surfboard enters a huge swell and turns his huge board and banks toward shore on the huge wall of water.  The wave at Windiness rears up as a huge triangular peak and breaks in both directions. At this point in time the lefts break better.  A slight offshore wind makes the surface conditions epic in nature and the waves carom to completion with spray dancing off the top of the breaking waves.  Don’t ever surf deep water windiness alone!

“I think the waves are too large for me,” whimpers Wracks

“We are parking and you are going out,” screams HP. “The conditions are epic and half of Diego watches on the beach.  If you start to drown, they will call a helicopter.”

“Twisted,” screams Kool and the crowd on the beach turn their heads for a second and look at him. Kool tears his clothes off like a man possessed and stark naked pulls on his wetsuit like a hotdog stuffing machine.  Today Windiness breaks like big Pipe on the takeoff and Kool rides goofy foot.  Both HP and Kool prepare with amazing speed and run toward the entry spot on the beach.  They both run to the water and cast themselves out like torpedoes steaming out of a submarine.  Wracks  remains stolid and slowly waxes his board and counts the set waves.  The sets are four in number with the second wave the largest and the sets periodically appear at twenty minute intervals.  Wracks’    decides to paddle out.  At windiness, a channel to the right of the reef sucks water out in a huge riptide when the waves break large and wracks enters the entry zone and the rip aids the paddle out into deep water and big waves.  Out in the middle of the ocean, an extraordinarily large set hits the reef and Wracks gets caught inside the area where the wave breaks and loses his surfboard, comes up after the set and finds him in the middle of nowhere in twenty foot plus waves.  He sees the older man in a helmet and asks him for help.  The older man says,

“Son, in big surf, you have to swim in.  If a rip pulls you out the only way in is to body surf the waves in.”  Wraks again asks him to help him in.   The man in the helmet repeats his command. “Body surf the waves in,”  “It is the only way. “

In large surf the ocean heaves in turbulence and without a wetsuit, most people soon drown.  Wracks  starts to back stroke his way into the beach.  The riptide hinders his exit.  A huge set hits the reef.  Wracks turns into freestyle stroke and scratches hard to enter the twenty foot high wave.  The wave picks him up and Wracks hydroplanes down the face of the wave using his hands like fins  At the bottom of the wave, Wracks turns and points toward the open area and the wave overtakes him and pushes downward, deeply and the turbulence spins him around like an old rag doll.  When deep under water all watermen open up their eyes.  Watermen open up their eyes to see where the bubbles go.  Where the bubbles move signals the direction up.  Wracks swims in direction of the bubbles, breaks surface, and gulps down a huge amount of air.  A second wall of white   water hits his body and Wracks goes underneath again.  Watching the bubbles, he swims upward and breaks surface again.  The set of waves concludes and Wracks has been pushed inside towards the beach and exit from the breakers seems possible.  Within ten minutes, wracks scrambles up on the beach and looks for his board.  Some kind of observer rescues his board from the rocks and sets the purple explosion on a safe stretch of beach.  Wracks sits  on the beach and looks again at the breaking waves.

“It wasn’t so bad,” he thinks, I am going back out.”  

Wracks’ grabs the reins of his horse, gets back on and rides again.  Luckily, no huge close out clean up sets made him swim in again.  Both HP and Cool surf as the time of their lives on the left breaking waves, just like Pipeline.  Wracks surfs the rights which break slower and mushier but still huge in size.  Wracks’ gets three huge set waves presently, and successfully performs two rollercoaster reentries in double overhead plus surf.  Wracks notes that the bottom turns feel good with the large custom fin.   By three o’clock PM. HP waves from the beach and heads up to the car at a parking place that mysteriously appears out of nowhere for the three at this exclusive and fabulous colony community.  The three exhausted wave riders strip their wetsuits and dress slowly.  Then the three sit inside the car and devour whatever remains of food in the car at hand.  Windiness a normal winter surf spot, breaks at incredible size on a hard south east swell, don’t tell anyone.   

“That was epic,” says HP “Awesome radical lefts.”

“Tubular,” asserts Kool as he smiles largely and eats a two foot long beef stick.

“I got two really good ones,”  says Wracks  “I can’t go left yet.”

“I have to work tonight, “ says HP, “lets go.”

The white and yellow van roars to life as the megaphone exhaust shakes and belches mist out of the header.  The van rolls over the bridge, gets on the interstate five and the three head for home.  HP smokes cigarettes, drinks a coca cola and drives.  As usual Wracks falls asleep.  Kool chain smokes and drinks a Budweiser red sixteen ounce beer.  Wracks  wakes up at the refinery, and again at dismal canyon road, past the high school.  At the corner of Mellow man’s lane, Bacon way and Saint Inez sits the Wracks house, with grandma, the dog, and a little bit of home.  Wracks and Cool pull their gear out of the van and Cool takes his board and duffel and disappears down the street towards Marco’s way.  Wraks rinses off his gear with cold water and enters his house.  The little dog wakes up, yelps and seems to smile.  No one resides within except for grandma who sits in her room and watches Lawrence Welk reruns.  She wave at wracks and smiles. 

“I will make dinner in fifteen minutes,”  says Wracks

Wracks finds some chicken with wine left over in the refrigerator, and puts the mass into the microwave oven.  The oven hums, the dog runs in his sleep on the cushion, the house darkens as light leaves the remains of the day, and night in tranquil hills begins.  Here nothing becomes of what it seems.  

Wracks never rode the waves at windiness ever again.  The drive remains too long especially for a person who does not own a car.  The secret of windiness remains.  When a huge storm turns off the coast of Antarctica, in the west, extreme south swells focus on south facing beaches on a north stretch of land.  A huge offshore canyon at windiness captures extreme south swells and Windiness can be twenty feet when everywhere else looks as flat as a lake.  Everywhere of course, except Jalama and the extremely well kept green custom houses last another day in a time when darkness and immensity threaten the world and the intrinsic fabric of mankind. If a wave rider surfs windiness alone, watch out for great white sharks as Simmons disappeared mysteriously there one day in big surf. 

All night long high winds and rain that goes sideways, a fusillade Ocean View.  Lightning booms and light arcs through the window shades and then sleep overtakes Wracks in his little room in the corner, shrouded by trees in the enclave next to campus.  Morning arrives and sunlight beams across the window onto the living room.  Cool sits at the kitchen table along with Koest, an old friend from tranquil Hills.  

“When did Koest get here,” asks Wracks

“He came in last night and you were asleep.” Says Kool.

“I checked out Campus point and Coal oil point and they are at least fifteen to twenty feet. Lets hit it.” Says Wracks.

“No!” “We are going to surf El Cap this morning.”  States Kool.

“I’m ready,” says Koest.

“I have to have a cigarette and a cup of coffee to get me up,” says Wracks

“I will be loading the van,” says Kool.

El Capitan State Beach Park exists as a special place, a hidden place, a secluded place, far enough away that nobody goes there.  To arrive at El Capitan, he or she drives north on Pacific Coast highway one for two hours until they see the big green and brown sign to turn off.  A few miles up the coast from El Cap, situates the City of Gaviota and Gaviota Point State Beach.  Out in the lineup at El Capitan, a rider can see the point of Gaviota in the distance. This is the land of huge white sharks.   Looking in from the air, El Capitan lays as a large comma shaped point oriented in the southwest direction.  Boulders, stones and pebbles form the large point and a campsite resides inland surrounded by large pine trees.  A parking area situates at the tip of the point so day users can enjoy the scenery.  Out in the ocean sit the majestic Channel Islands and the water is dark grayish blue.  From a surfer’s point of view, El Capitan provides a point break type wave that tunnels in six inches of water.  The breaking wave throws inward farther out then it is high.  Although not as pretty as the Banzai Pipeline, El Capitan point breaks with more force and more danger.  The down side of El Capitan State Beach Point stems from its geography.  For the most part, the beach sits in the shadow of San Nicolas Island and Santa Rosa to the south.  For this reason, on a large West swell, El Capitan State Beach point will break half the size of Campus point on the same west swell.  Additionally, the city of Gaviota to the north pumps all the farm waste and sewage directly into the ocean and the area has the notoriety as another shark pit in the red triangle of death.  The factor that allures all wave riders is the reality that El Capitan Point break waves break in a tube that throws out farther than the wave is high.  For example, a six foot wave will be a six foot square cavern breaking down a long point in shallow water. Today four other wave riders brave the white sharks and sit in a pack at the peak.  The tide looms high and backwash from the point balloons the waves into huge monstrosities of pain.  Where Campus turns at twenty feet clean rulers, El Capitan at this moment vomits ten foot ugly monsters down a gravelly, rock strewn point. 

“I’m out,” says Koest. “I may never get the chance to surf it this big ever again.’

“Yeah Dah,” screams Kool.  “I’m goofy foot,” and he waxes his board with paraffin, smokes a cigarette and drinks a Heineken lager beer.  Kool pulls out a large beef stick food item, chews it down and washes the bolus down his throat with beer.   After hiding his car keys, Kool grabs his red Nat Pro pintail gun and runs to the water and is in and paddling.  A huge set rolls in and Kool pushes through a feathering lip and makes it outside alive and unscathed.  Koest and Wracks slowly wax up and survey the lineup.  The sets arrive every twenty minutes and the biggest wave is either the first or second one.  Wracks and Koest hit the beach, time the sets and set outward.  Wracks waits outside as usual so not to compete for waves in the pack.  Wracks wants the big one.  Within a half hour, a big one rolls in, Wracks commits, and is engulfed a huge disgorging, upchucking beast.  At the bottom Wraks turns, drifts up the face, sets his edge, puts his hands together and prays.  The wave turns in front of him, closes around him, convulses and disgorges the wayfarer after four seconds of pure speed.  Wracks glides out of the thing, makes a few turns and kicks out of the wave.  As Wraks paddles back up to the peak with the pack, Koest screams by on a mutant clone and Wracks sees him grit his teeth as he holds his rail backside and accelerates past him.  Kool has the time of his life, screams and starts to attract big shark.  On his third wave, Wracks breaks the nose off of his board in the shallow water but paddles back out and surfs a nose less board covered with duct tape. 

“I might never catch El Cap this big ever again,” thinks Wracks.  Wracks is right.  He will never see El Capitan state beach ever again. 

“We are leaving,” says Kool “The waves drop in size as we speak.”  “Let’s go surf some lefts.”

The Three throw their boards into the brown and yellow van, strip their wet suits, have a cigarette, dress and enter the van.  Koest rides shotgun.  Wracks lies on the bed in back with the boards.  Kool lights a cigarette and pulls another Heineken from his cooler, pops the top with an opener and gulps the whole bottle down in a single draw.   The tuned exhaust on the van booms a raspy growl and the three head out of El Capitan State Beach Park.  Halfway done, the day rolls on, the sun, beams down proudly and few clouds from the previous big storm remain.  Ten minutes down south from El Capitan, sits a deep water reef that breaks left.  At this instant the reef shows at least twice overhead.  

“I am going out,” says Kool

“Me too, says Kost.

The two drag on cold, cold, wetsuits, wax their boards and head down to the reef.  Wracks sits in his Druid robe, smokes a cigarette and watches. He feels sick and weak.  The nose of his Nat Pro homebrew board will half to be glassed back on his board at home.  Wracks does not want to risk ruining the entire board so he refrains from joining the two and surveys the world.   Kool and Koest nab big waves on the reef and surf until they cannot paddle any more.  Arriving quietly back at the van, they dress and the crew drive down PCH back to Island view community. Back at the apartment, the gear stows inside and Wracks sits down on the couch.

“I have to do homework,” says Wracks

“Me and Koest are going to Big D’s, says Kool

“Big D is having a party.”

“Have fun,” says Wracks

The wrack never has the chance to return to El Capitan State Beach Park and look at ten-foot waves.  Like Malibu, the bigger it is the better it breaks.  Maybe the location sits too far away.  Maybe El Cap does not share the things that make a return visit possible.  Maybe the place looms too remote, too secluded and too unpopulated to return to conscious memory.  Wracks never gets to test the secret of El Capitan State Beach Park Point.  A local that day confides to him to check the break on the next huge southwest swell.  The Secret of El Capitan Point is this:  the spot locates exactly at the gap between Santa Rosa Island and San Nicholas Island.  On a big southwest swell, the waves sneak through the gap and focus on El Capitan State Beach.  The local says, “El Capitan breaks biggest and has the best form on a big southwest swell contrary to popular opinion.”  El Capitan breaks better in the summer and when time exists for you, be there on a big southwest swell.” Wracks never receives the luck to test the secret suggestion.  Possibly the local wants Wracks to be eaten by a big white shark, in the summer when they are most active.  The secret remains untested until the next generation in their youthful exuberance happen upon El Cap in the summer, on a road trip, when southern hemisphere cyclones generate huge swells.  Wracks sits in his little den, with a light, a cigarette, and a cup of coffee and a loaf of bread and studies Newtonian Calculus.  In the den, in the apartment surrounded by a grove of trees in an obscured location shaded from the sun, Wracks stays nurturing Cools hydroponic garden until the quarter concludes and the stay in Island View comes to an end.